7016/0 + 7021/0
Following the ref. 7928, Tudor introduced a new generation of Submariners: the ref. 7016/0 and 7021/0. Over their seven-year production run, several notable changes were introduced, including the transition to ETA movements, the addition of a date function on the 7021/0, and the emergence of new dial variations. The 7016/0 was fitted with the ETA cal. 2483, while the 7021/0 used the ETA cal. 2484—both 25-jewel movements. Early in the 7016/0’s production, multiple dial variations appeared in quick succession, whereas the 7021/0 was limited to just two dial variants throughout its production.
Dial - The ref. 7016/0 featured three primary dial types—Rose, Shield, and Snowflake—each with its own subcategories. The Rose dial (carried over from the ref. 7928 Mk6) was the earliest variant of the 7016/0, produced in the first quarter of 1968.
By contrast, the 7021/0 was limited to two dial types: Snowflake, in both blue and black. This marked the first time Tudor and Rolex introduced a non-black Submariner dial. The 7021/0 was also fitted with a red and black “roulette” date wheel, where even numbers appear in red and odd numbers in black. These are typically found only in early examples.
The most common dial variant is the Snowflake, a nickname given by collectors for the distinctive shape of the hour hand. While prevalent in the 7016/0, the Snowflake design signaled a new direction for Tudor, marking a clear departure from traditional Rolex design language and helping establish a distinct brand identity.
The Snowflake design was heavily influenced by the French Navy, who required improved legibility underwater. Tudor responded with square hour markers and larger, more legible hands, optimized for low-light and murky conditions. Today, the Snowflake remains a defining characteristic of Tudor’s modern sport watches. The rarest Snowflake variant is the blue 7016/0. It’s exceptionally difficult to source, particularly in good condition, as early examples were prone to dial degradation, including bubbling or “rot,” often attributed to paint defects and/or water ingress.
Case - As with the previous generation, Tudor retained a 39mm case (signed Rolex) with a depth rating of 200 meters. Rounded crown guards were also carried over, with one notable exception: the earliest ref. 7016/0 examples from the first quarter of 1968. These feature a distinctive case shape known as semi-pointed crown guards (SPCG). The SPCG configuration was produced for only a brief period before Tudor reverted to rounded crown guards, which remained standard for the remainder of the reference and all subsequent models.
For comparison, the SPCG case is characterized by an upward slope along the underside of the crown guards. This period also marks the introduction of the “/0” suffix. Finally, around 1973 (approximately serial 814xxx), the caseback stamping was simplified, with the date removed. From this point forward, the interior caseback reads only: “Montres Tudor S.A., Geneva Switzerland Patented, Stainless Steel.”
Pictured to the right is the Semi Pointed Crown Guard (top) and the Rounded Crown Guard (bottom).
Hands - All ref. 7016/0 examples were fitted with traditional Mercedes hands, with the exception of the Snowflake variants. The only variation within the Mercedes handset appears on Maxi dials, which feature shorter minute and seconds hands that barely reach the minute track. As with the ref. 7928, the “lollipop” seconds hand can also be found, typically on very early 7016/0 examples. Thereafter, the smaller seconds hand is consistently seen throughout the remainder of production.
Please note that the provided serial ranges below are estimates and are not definitive
Rose
The first iteration of the 7016/0 shared the same rose dial as the ref. 7928 MK6. The 7016/0 version was fitted in a semi-pointed crown guard (SPCG) case. We only find SPCG’s on very early 7016/0s.
The earliest example found is 621xxx. All Rose examples should have “I 68” and “7528” stamped inside the case back. There is some speculation as to why 7528 was stamped inside the caseback. One can assume 7528 was going to be the named reference going forward and then Tudor decided to use 7016/0 instead to align with the rest of the shield dials in their non-submariner line up (ref. 7017, 7019, 7020, 7021).
Approx. serial range: 621xxx to 623xxx
Maxi Rose
This dial has the same characteristic as the Rose dial featured above but with larger hour plots. There is also a notable difference in the hands on these Maxi versions. The hour and seconds hands only reach the hash marks, whereas the hands on non-Maxi versions extend beyond them. Additionally, lollipop seconds hands are commonly present in this variant.
This is the last time we see Tudor use the Rose dial until modern examples.
Approx. serial range: Most examples are found around the 623xxx to 625xxx range, but several have surfaced up to 737xxx.
Snowflake “SWISS” Only
The first Snowflakes are what collectors refer to as “SWISS only,” due to “SWISS” being the lone print in between the hash marks. “SWISS only” can be found with black and on much rarer occasions, blue dials. The blue dials were first released in 1968 (~62xxxx), followed by black.
Approx. serial range: Black dials tend to fall from 74xxxx to 815xxx, while blue dials are found around 62xxxx.
Shield
This dial variation is only found around 1970.
Approx. serial range: 740xxx
Maxi Shield
This dial has the same characteristic as the Shield dial featured above but with larger hour plots and a shorter hour and seconds hand.
Note that this variation is typically paired with a shorter minute and seconds hand, that barely touches the minute markers.
Approx. serial range: 740xxx
Snowflake
The rest of the Snowflakes with “T SWISS T” can be found in either blue or black. They feature a “T SWISS T” dial and can be found until the end of the production of the 7016/0.
Approx. serial range: 760xxx to 827xxx
7021/0
In the fourth quarter of 1969, Tudor introduced the ref. 7021/0, its first Submariner to feature a date function. The 7021/0 was produced with both blue and black dials, all in the Snowflake configuration. Early examples were fitted with a red and black “roulette” date wheel, with even numbers in red and odd numbers in black, while later examples featured all-black numerals. Some blue 7021/0 dials are known to exhibit a “confetti” effect, characterized by green and blue speckling. The “T SWISS T” designation is consistently found below the 6 o’clock marker.
Approx. serial range: 70xxxx to 76xxxx